For many Salt Lake City residents, recreation is an integral pastime. From the Bonneville Shoreline to the seven canyons of the Wasatch, Salt Lake City boasts hundreds of miles of dirt and ridgeline. As John Verants notes, “with three wilderness areas and hundreds of miles of trails, [the Wasatch] offer[s] a treasure land of outdoor opportunities within easy reach of nearly a million people.” The slews of trailheads provide a source of anxiety for some; taking the wrong trail can dump you into a technical rock pitch or an exposed ridge. With winter descending upon us in conjunction with the unreliability of online blogs, I consulted with the wise veteran of Salt Lake trail running and hiking: Mark Oftedal. Mark is as knowledgeable as it gets. With decades of running experience in the Wasatch, Mark has likely run trails you may have never known existed. This article is a summary of Mark’s favorite niche corners of the Wasatch––a broad variety of trails ranging from flat double track to technical scrambling.

If you are new to the hiking and running community, Mark recommends the beautiful Millcreek-Big Cottonwood loop, a serene and sheltered trail connecting two of the most visually striking canyons in the Wasatch. To access the trail, Mark suggests beginning at the Big Water Trailhead in upper Millcreek canyon. The aptly named “Big Water Trail” will wind you through the dense aspen groves until you reach Dog Lake (beware of leeches). The stunning natural amphitheater of Dog Lake is worth hiking to in itself; however, Mark encourages you to continue around Little Water Peak on the “Desolation Trail” until you reach Desolation Lake. Despite its popularity, Desolation Lake is a tranquil location––an epicenter of wildlife spotting in the Wasatch. After you reach Desolation Lake, Mark enjoys gaining the Big Cottonwood-Park City Ridgeline, a striking and expansive trail that ultimately leads back to the Big Water Trailhead. This is a longer loop; however, Mark recommends it as a premier staple of beginner hikes/runs in the Wasatch. So, if you want a mellow trail in a naturally alluring location, consider the Millcreek-Big Cottonwood loop.

For the more avid recreators, Mark’s recommendation dives into one of the most well-known corners of the Wasatch: Mount Timpanogos. Popular for good reason, the menacing mountain features pristine pastures, a technical ridgeline, and an abundant peaceful mountain goat population. With many routes to the summit, Mark recommends the Timpooneke trailhead located off the Alpine Scenic Highway. The route meanders through subalpine forests, passing multiple waterfalls. Then, the route crests above the tree line, revealing the magnificent jagged Timpanogos ridgeline that reaches from American Fork Canyon to Provo Canyon. The sublime alpine vista boasts a variety of attractions, from the Timpanogos glacial moraine to the translucent Emerald Lake. If you have the energy, a technical rocky trail will lead you to the summit ridgeline, and eventually, to the summit. While you could attempt to create a loop, Mark recommends that intermediate hikers hike out the same trail. The length of Timpanogos may be a deterrent for some; however, Mark notes that: “I fell in love with Timpanogos, I would often be on that trail without bumping into anyone! If you want to do this trail, the best time is to do it on a weekday.” Thus, if you want to challenge yourself on a technical yet rewarding hike, consider Mt. Timpanogos, the second-highest mountain of the Wasatch.

Lastly, for advanced mountain enthusiasts, Mark draws inspiration from the famous “Wasatch Steeplechase' to recommend a true classic: Black Mountain to Smuggler’s Gap. This route deviates from the popular central Wasatch, instead revolving around upper City Creek Canyon. The beginning of the loop is unassuming––the long journey from the Terrace Hills Drive Trailhead is a mostly double track along the Twin Peaks leading towards Black Mountain. However, your outing will become an adventure as the steep ascent up Black Mountain is arduous, littered with loose rock and unsure footing. Furthermore, as you find yourself at the false summit of Black Mountain dubbed “Little Black,” the trail becomes a class 2 (3 in areas) scramble to the summit. The adventure continues with one of the rowdiest and most entertaining descents of the Wasatch: The Smuggler’s Gap. The trail is difficult to see, as multiple trees obscure its entrance. Yet the tight turns and loamy soil make the Smuggler’s Gap a “must do'' for advanced hikers, as Mark notes that “you will see very few people. Once you get to the smuggler's notch, you’ll feel like you’re out of Utah.” After the rapid descent (racers in the Wasatch Steeplechase have been known to descend in under 30 minutes!), continue along City Creek Canyon until you reach Rotary Park. While unnecessary, Mark enjoys ascending to the Bonneville Shoreline once more, to give the loop a flowy conclusion. This route is a large undertaking, as the loop’s difficulty lies primarily in its length. Yet, the remoteness and solitude of the area in conjunction with Mark’s inclusion of Smuggler’s Gap and the Twin Peak descent finish make this route worthy of consideration for conditioned hikers and runners.  

Internet blogs and applications providing extensive information on certain trails cater to those seeking mainstream peaks or routes. For local insight into the more obscure corners of the Wasatch, Mark Oftedal is the expert. From Millcreek Canyon to Mount Timpanogos, Mark’s selections are challenging and will likely take up most of the day. However, I’d argue that the physical effort is well worth the solitude and the momentary peace from the well-populated Salt Lake Valley.